“The elephant in the room? He is in the living room,” Francesco Risso said ironically backstage before the show. The designer explained he wanted to portray the actual elephant in the room of contemporary society — an unconventional, maybe a bit strange and eccentric youth who doesn’t want to fit in with commonly accepted standards.
While the show opened with more traditional men’s wear pieces, including bouclé suits and coats and moleskin pants, the collection quickly moved toward a more flamboyant, quirky atmosphere with fluid silk shirts and pajamalike pants splashed with vibrant patterns, which were inspired by the 1976 animated movie “Allegro non troppo” by Bruno Bozzetto. A Nineties grungy, rebellious feel was injected via the multicolor mohair striped sweaters cut in loose silhouettes, as well as with acid-washed denim pants. A luxurious vibe unexpectedly popped up with pants, blazers and coats worked in exotic skins and ponyskin to highlight the multifaceted spirit of young personalities, who don’t take themselves too seriously. Risso’s dreamy, childlike fashion vision resulted in another fun collection, putting Marni’s men’s wear back on the fashion map.