Milan’s storied, centenarian Jamaica café strewn with local punters was the perfect setting for Massimo Piombo’s latest presentation. Grouped in a side room stood a cluster of mannequins in bohemian looks that jumbled washed knits, plaid blanket skirts and colored wool coats tied with a mix of scarves in vivid retro printed silks and textured wools.

As usual, the old school cloths did all the talking, from the overcoats in deep blue alpaca, mohair and cashmere blends from Hungary or a dark green Austrian wool typically used for bed plaids to a bordeaux scarf in Peruvian mohair edged with Mexican red silk embroidery.

“I’m a nomad, I like to travel the world to create a small dream,” said the designer of his punk-panache styling. He recalled a dinner thrown in the venue by Vogue Italia’s late Franca Sozzani. “She told me ‘Massimo, this is your place,’” he said.

“The place is unique. All the artists used to come to work here in the Fifties, Sixties, Seventies, to smoke, exchange and write. It’s one of the most eccentric places.”

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