Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina said backstage before the show that a few women’s sketches done during their high-school years served as the starting point for their collection. This was reflected in the Nineties silhouettes of flared pants layered under tunic dresses, as well as in the slipdresses, including several printed with the poppies of a vintage Windows screen saver — an ironic reference to the pre-Internet era.

However, the lineup didn’t exude any nostalgia; instead it was injected with a young, street vibe that avoided the traps of mainstream trends like neon hues, color-blocking and logomania in favor of a refreshing, spontaneous simplicity. Suits lost any stiffness, tailoring fabrics were crafted for cozy elongated padded anoraks, cardigans became overcoats to casually wear with baggy jeans, while a high-tech appeal came via coated outerwear pieces with asymmetric stripes and a PVC-like glossy effect.

Reflecting a unisex design approach, the women’s looks easily coexisted with the men’s wear. The sartorial quality of covetable checked suits with a double-breasted jacket and drawstring-cuffed pants was juxtaposed with the glamorous sparkle of a tunic dress with a knitted bodice with a bottom covered in a cascade of silver maxi sequins.

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