Nineties minimalism has started to gain momentum this season. Theory has been doing it all along.

Inspired by the abstract paintings of Pierre Soulages, creative director Martin Andersson presented an array of all-black looks, multi-layered in different textures for the line’s fall offering. “I was in the mood for a black statement,” he said.

This worked best in a textured wool top coat over a sleek nylon blazer and high-neck sweater where the use of different fabrics and finishes helped create depth and interest.

A red section — with shades that ranged from pink to burgundy — as well as a few hints of yellow, livened up the assortment. A Bordeaux-colored cropped shearling, needle-punched sweaters and a hooded suede bomber juxtaposed with nylons and other lightweight technical fabrics created the perfect contrast between the high and the low within the collection.

And the trademark Theory polyester/nylon tech suit with a touch of Lycra felt modern and relevant again. “Our tailored business is doing very well,” Andersson noted.

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