Jonny Johansson’s retro-future, Seventies-infused psychedelic hippy trip built on the brand’s spring 2018 “thrift shop on acid” collection, filtered through a strong techno-industrial lens.
The designer backstage said he’d been thinking about the different counter-cultures “and then started thinking about my own.”
“What always interests me is the outsider community perspective, and that’s probably because I’m Swedish and that we’re sort of a bit of a different breed in terms of brands,” he said.
“I’m into this whole bohemian, intellectual, political approach to fashion, and I think the outsider approach to fashion is more interesting now than before, because fashion is really out there [thanks to] the Internet and the [media].”
He made his own case for it in his evolution on the bad-taste-good-taste direction of recent seasons, serving up revisited staples in a fresh batch of garish colors and weird materials like a green psychedelic T-shirt swirling with lines; a performance-style jacket with articulated elbows in faux snakeskin that lent a sci-fi vibe; patent leather cargo pants, and a bright, almost fluorescent orange used on both a tailored top coat and glossy vinyl coat. The chunky rainboot-style footwear resembled chemical-proof factory worker safety boots with, among the other accessories, oversize colored mohair scarves with floor-sweeping tassels.
Maintaining the oversize volumes, the high-waisted cargo leather pants with a baggy leg felt very much part of the conversation taking place this season.
The researched knitwear was equally experimental, with one of the most striking looks a lilac update on a cable knit sweater tucked into off-white pants with an extra flap opened peeling from the hip to display a matching lilac lining.
A boho poncho streaming with fringes swept by, also revisited in a great sweater version. The eye-catching knits with wavy colored threads encased in tulle were sweet, with a childish mood permeating the collection. That can be attributed to Johansson’s other case study, his 15-year-old son Frasse and “the way he takes stuff and puts it together, that I don’t really recognize, but in a nice way.”