This sensual, finely detailed collection based on the idea of the designer’s own ideal wardrobe taking to the runway marked a promising Milan debut for Shinpei Yamagishi.
There was a bohemian dandy flavor to the silhouettes combining masculine and feminine elements, with the gleaming color-changing velvets, the plant prints on shirts and intarsia knits and the unique palette, mixing bright red, burgundy, saffron-yellow and fuchsia, which lent an ethnic flavor.
An unlined, draped red jacket with a shawl collar worn tucked into pants had a blouse feel to it, offering a soft counterpoint to the line’s sporty hooded military jackets tricked out with zips and laces.
Mixing elegant and casual, the designer, along with his signature layering and subtle deconstructions, played on hybrids, reconfiguring a top as a skirt, say, or adding ribbed black cuffs to a camel trenchcoat with a big fringed shawl panel draped across it.
Familiar bands of three stripes flashed out here and there from under layers, items from his capsule with Adidas, drawing the eye. Ditto for unexpected details like the cobweb embroidery placed on the inside of coat lapels.