Boris Bidjan Saberi relayed Mongolian and Persian influences for fall, adding flavor to his precise, military-inspired designs. The silk road was awash with primary materials like copper and silver, he noted backstage following the show, and he decided to train his sights on the oxidation process.
Strips of copper decorated the faces of the models — “soldier makeup” in the designer’s words, with patches of aquamarine blue added to complete the closing number: a tailored jacket and shorts ensemble, in this bright blue, with a furry yak vest, in a silvery hue, strapped on top. High-top boots, also dyed in the prerequisite hue, completed the look, while sturdy straps reined in the silhouette, adding to the utilitarian feel. “My technical roots come from military garments — this is a driving force of the collection,” he said. The military bent was certainly back in full force this season.
The dyeing process — color! — was another underlying theme, as the lineup gradually shifted from grays and silvers to include pale blues before leading to an emphatic aquamarine.
The carefully considered choice of materials — yak wasn’t the only leather; there was also horse and kangaroo — and the accessories — small purses attached to the chest with straps — added to the polished feel of the collection. Other elements worth noting: the use of chunky knitwear to provide volumes, helmet-style hats in felt and the layers, which spoke in length, often below the knees.