Masanori Morikawa created a strong collection charged with urban sartorial pieces and less of a nod to Eastern influences than in seasons past.
The show notes explained that the line, called Signal Noise, was influenced by a 1994 art happening, entitled “S/N” by Dumb Type, conceived by a Japanese artist collective that — through the piece — questioned discrimination and imagined a time devoid of borders and stereotypes. The performance’s aesthetic and political elements particularly inspired Morikawa for fall.
There was a coherence to this collection full of streamlined silhouettes for men and women, like the cinched black suit and jacket, brown velour trousers and bomber, and multicolored striped sweater over black velour pants.
This lineup was full of varied details, such as splayed cuffs, tape seams and winged motifs, and fabrics like a coated material appearing shiny; wool; leather, and cotton. Colors varied, too, from black and navy to mauve and teal.
What could have been clashing — the look, say, with a white turtleneck, multicolored, collage-like shirt, glossy gray trousers and long, zip-up gloves — coalesced.