Some of the ingredients might have been old, but this highly energetic show, in its on-point evolution on the brand’s commitment to conscious design incorporating pre-loved garments, felt like a fresh departure for design duo Emma and Saif Bakir.
Their protagonist: an apocalyptic raver who’d borrowed time-worn pieces from his dad’s wardrobe, his skinny latex pants in a crumpled, marbelized print adding a youth kick to the boxy tailoring and frayed knits.
Everything had a destroyed, punky allure, including the opening dark green coat with large shoulders and slashed sleeves, with layered over it a deconstructed vest in a patchwork of knitwear motifs, some turned inside out, and a huge padded scarf knotted in a bow at the side.
A hybrid suit pant cut from two similar checked sartorial fabrics joined with a diagonal scar crossing the upper legs was uber cool.
Underscoring the Frankenstein vibe were the great experimental knits — the designers were finalists for the International Woolmark Prize 2019 — layered over tailoring, from the small vests veiled in tulle-like layers, to deconstructed pieces that looked like they’d had giant chunks taken out of them, “Jaws” style. Case in point, the winning look in a collection brimming with subculture buzz and sensuality: a funnel neck cable knit in full decomposition, layered over a double-breasted green jacket with the sleeves slit open to reveal a yellow crushed velvet shirt, with marbleized yellow latex leggings finishing the look.