Lucie and Luke Meier’s inaugural men’s runway show for the brand felt purer and closer to the vision of the house founder, the master of luxurious Nineties minimalism who was known for her deep fabric research.
Presented at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, its ceilings painted with cherubs, the collection was clean-looking, urban and proper in mood, with nods to military and workwear in the volumes and details. Examples included a three-button, gray-blue jacket worn with matching pants with elasticized cuffs and big zipped pockets at the bottom of the legs, tapping into the season’s utilitarian trend, or the following coat in a finely grooved fabric, perfectly cut with a comfortable, clean fit.
A big wooly coat in a military loden-style material, attached with a strap and paired with a white shirt and crewneck sweater in a similar heathery shade, felt very Nineties, followed by a pristine white turtleneck worn under a double-breasted trenchcoat with great proportions. Pops of color came into play, including the color-blocked coats in big squares of lining silks in a classic palette of navy, burgundy and white.
A total-look vibe dominated, including a pant with more of a workwear allure in a different heathery texture, worn with a matching shirt. The baggy jumpsuits in papery cotton, meanwhile, were treated like coats or suits, worn over shirts.
The designers experimented with long and short proportions, like on a look layering a vest and shirts of two lengths, including a knee-grazing granddad style, in the same white pajama-style stripe, or a silhouette combining a navy coat and gray shirt with a dress sweater worked in a club-tie stripe, which underscored the general schoolboy feel of the collection.