The designer, who was born in 1961, called his show Silver Swagger, and said he aimed to dress his generation of men — and older ones, too. It could have equally been called Junya’s Coats of Many Colors for all the splicing, patchwork and texture on the runway.
According to the show notes, Watanabe-san “finds that today, older men possess stronger personalities and are cooler than the younger generations. The collection is Watanabe-san’s expression of a hip, mature men’s style.”
Models of a certain age strode around in a mash-up of hipster looks favored by London media, design and architecture types. The guys looked great in their cool, layered ensembles even if the show was a tad repetitive: How many two-tone jackets, gingham shirts and patched jeans did we actually need to see?
Maybe the designer was just allowing some extra time for the audience to put on their glasses, turn up their hearing aids and take in the spectacle of fabric jackets with quilted, knitted, leather or puffer sleeves, or others that were tailored on one side, and with velvet, tapestry, army green or technical panels on the other.
The jeans, a collaboration with Levi’s, came rolled with striped shirt fabric on the undersides, or with suede or tartan patches. Watanabe also worked with New Balance, Canada Goose, Turnbull and Asser and Schott on the collection.
Cotton cargo trousers were also rolled, while shirts — striped or gingham check — were left untucked, all perfect for those coffee runs to Shoreditch Grind or days spent in the design, architecture or photography studio, trying to teach those Millennials a thing or two.