Synthesize was the word of order for fall at Juun.J, directions the designer imposed on himself and tackled with focus. And what was he synthesizing? Material-wise, a fresh profusion of checked and camouflage patterns were blended with dark solids and metallic nylon; sleek, tailored suits and long, slim dresses melded with voluminous, technical outerwear — from trenches to the puffiest of puffer jackets. The designer also mentioned gender, and the coed lineup toggled easily between the masculine and feminine, with a bit of shared territory here and there. Mostly, though, he pushed deeply into both, with the women wearing sharp stiletto boots with slim trousers, while the men glided by on chunky sneakers and looser pants.
Much of the collection was elegant — quite — and his ongoing experiment with volumes felt more targeted and precise than previous seasons. Tailored suit jackets carried sharp and angular shoulders, many of them cut from two fabrics — one on the right and the other on the left. All black, in one case, nylon on one side and cotton on the other; or mismatched plaids.
Detached puffer jacket hoods, with baseball-cap bills, became a new fashionable form of headgear, worn by both genders — the silhouette falling somewhere between an aviator cap and a diving helmet, extending to the shoulders at times, like a footballer’s shoulder pads.
“You can wear it alone, like a headset and actually attach it back to the puffer jacket,” noted the designer, backstage before the show.
Fringes added a soft and cozy touch to the collection that was appealing, bringing movement to the bottom of a long, black coat.
“It’s about putting the elegance and the classic there, and adding it on to the sports,” was his description, through an interpreter. With this synthesis in mind, he churned out some handsome looks.