Tailoring is shouldering its way back into men’s wear, often with multiple layers made from the same fabric. This is how Luke Meier opened his assured show for fall, with its undercurrent of Seattle grunge and other sly Nineties references.
He’s skilled at voluptuous, large shapes, managing to make his oversize coats and shirts look chic and elegant, never sloppy. Meier employed lots of gray wool, which heightened the utilitarian undercurrent always present in his OAMC designs.
The hospital green vinyl walls were a wink to Matthew Barney’s “Cremaster” series, and the kink of Barney’s art performances surfaced in the latex turtlenecks, illustrated carrier bags and a butter-toned trench that undulated like jelly. Clinical pastels and checked patterns added some cheer to the austere shapes.
Meier’s roomy, tone-on-tone suits and coats were among the show’s strongest looks, with boxy gray wool jackets layered over long double-breasted coats and generously cut trousers. Some of them had a workwear feel, while others were more sartorial.
Other standouts included oversize check shirts and coats with a touch of Kurt Cobain, while bags and T-shirts showcased the freeform line drawings of Meier’s friend, the artist and musician Daniel Johnston. Meier said that, going forward, OAMC plans to work with Johnston’s mental health charity, the Hi, How Are You Project.