Themes of protection and destruction continued to fashion Shangguan Zhe’s urban collection, which included a wider tailoring offer and — as a first for the brand — pieces specifically crafted for women.
In dreaming up the offer for fall, the designer envisioned a make-believe military diving squad, called Drown 52. Its members wore deftly cut suits, streetwear and newfangled nautical uniforms, sometimes mixing them up. Looks often had skinnier silhouettes than in the past couple of seasons, from which this collection morphed.
Tuxedo-styled suits, camo and satin bomber jackets, black-and-white spandex tops, sailor collars, parkas with diving-suit elements and velvet shirts popping with color helped flesh out this diverse yet cohesive collection. It was accessorized with spiky Airpod-like earrings and hands covered with metallic finger rings (think “Edward Scissorhands”). A trio of airtight, waterproof bags, made through a collaboration with Herschel Supply, emphasized the diving leitmotif.
Following the show, the Sankuanz team was gearing up to throw an after party celebrating its collaboration with Puma on sneakers for spring 2019.