Teppei Fujita looked to the Thirties, borrowing the era’s suit jackets and rearranging them to fit his universe for the coed lineup for fall. Rule-breaking serves as the starting point for collections at Sulvam, and so it went, with the designer continuing his push against the streetwear tide. Bowler hats, clips for suspenders and dark suits — streetwear of another period, also marked by chaos — were references. These he transformed, with the addition of a pair of thick, brown, fleecy sleeves worn over a suit coat in one instance, and paired with a clear plastic side bag, in another.
A sprinkle of camouflagelike patterns felt fresh, with splashes of stark colors, which he used for suits, trench coats and matching head scarves. Last season’s profusion of polar fleece took on new forms, including foot-covering brown leggings — a new take on tights.
He references the classic women’s cardigan suit, citing its symbolism of female empowerment. Here he loosened the silhouette, applied external seams and added matching bright purple pants. The ensemble was worn by a male model — gender-fluidity is another house code. Considering work by Diane Arbus, the row of models included a set of twins, a nod to one of the photographer’s most famous images.
“What’s beauty? Either you’re normal, or you’re really beautiful, or you’re disabled — you decide,” said Fujita, speaking through an interpreter.