The offering of men’s looks was a lot more limited than past seasons at Unravel. “It’s probably half of what it used to be,” admitted creative director Ben Taverniti, speaking at the brand’s showroom in Paris. “I felt like over the seasons my aesthetic got lost, so I shrunk back in order to re-create this foundation and then build back as we go along.”

The small collection in a select color palette — black, white, gray — allowed for the style innovations to shine. Layering, a favorite theme, was pushed to extremes, especially on the lower level of the body: a pair of drop-crotch pants was worn with thick socks and high-top shoes, covering every inch in different layers of texture.

Zips were added to the sides of black down jackets: once open, the garment looked almost cape-like. The action exposed the different volumes underneath, like a layered denim jacket or a fine-knit cashmere.

Straps dangled along trouser legs and hoodies came printed with a torn-looking brand logo mirroring the deconstructed collages created by the team to illustrate the season’s look book. Analogue pictures of American natural landscapes were scanned and added to the collection pictures in a nod to Taverniti’s design process. “I always start working with the fabrics, playing with textures, superpositions and colors, overlaying everything,” explained the Los Angeles-based designer. “We played with the images in the same way that I design: you see the rips, you see the cuts.”

load comments