Walter Van Beirendonck’s lineup for fall was titled “Wow,” with a subhead reading “The Meltdown Collection.” Like always, his fashion channeled the ethos of our times, but this round came with a vivid Technicolor punch. From the clothes to Moon Boots and models’ makeup and masks, it seemed recently flung paint was still dripping down.
As in seasons past, there was a panoply of sartorial elements in Van Beirendonck’s display, showing his deft hand: Tailored jackets and Oxford shirts that were extruded and deconstructed, with asymmetric cuts and oversized collars or sleeves. Some models sported workmen’s garb like a boilersuit, and sportswear abounded, such as shorts and leggings.
Clothing and fabrics were layered up and paired for hybrid looks, while other themes bubbling up again in this busy collection included fetishism, plus cartoony faces and effigies of a naked man, bearded like the designer.
These appeared sometimes on outerwear, which was an especially strong element this season. Standouts included a long coat made of a patchwork of various-colored fur pieces, a gray jacket with matching shearling hood and bomber jackets, often peeking out from under brightly hued blankets, sweatshirts or oversized slogans all strapped on. One said: “Endangered W. Species.” Van Beierdonck’s message couldn’t be clearer.