The stuccoed rooms of Palazzo Gerini with chandeliers covered in drapes and burning candles served as a cinematic backdrop for Brioni’s fall 2020 event, a hybrid of a presentation and a musical live performance curated by fashion historian Olivier Saillard with classical instruments players acting as models. Even if the setting looked highly suggestive, it was quite compelling for the audience to actually see the clothes.

In keeping with Brioni’s design director Norbert Stumpfl’s vision, the brand marked its 75th anniversary with a more relaxed approach to tailoring. During a preview a few weeks ahead of the show, Stumpfl said he is not doing “fashion, it’s more about style and showing men how they can wear these extremely luxurious clothes in a very easy way,” he said, referring to the overall sense of laid-back sophistication infused into his collection, mainly conveyed through tiny details and a delicate color palette of buttery white, washed beige and dashes of pink.

A coat made of double-faced alpaca left undyed to preserve its natural color was paired with white denim pants and a white overcoat crafted from Mongolian cashmere sourced from albino species, completed with white horn buttons, was worn over a taupe jersey crewneck and tone-on-tone wool pants.

Impeccable suits nodding to designs from the Fifties and the Seventies had relaxed silhouettes, larger lapels and structured shoulders.

With the award season now ongoing there were plenty of options for men accustomed to the red carpet fanfare. Traditional tuxedos, like the custom-made three-piece mohair design that Brad Pitt, the latest brand ambassador, sported at the Golden Globes on Sunday, were matched with cashmere and silk turtlenecks instead of dinner shirts and a bow. A silk blazer embroidered with a painterly floral jacquard motif crafted with a 17th-century loom was a flamboyant alternative and telegraphed the brand’s artisanal know-how.

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