Tiny fringes here, light tassels there. Removable curved silk collars and graphic embroideries with an ancestral charm, further highlighted by metallic embellishments and small jewelry pieces. The Jil Sander fall collection, which was unveiled with a runway show at the Santa Maria Novella refectory — for the occasion embellished with huge piles of vibrant orange carnations — demonstrated Lucie and Luke Meier’s ability at capturing the attention via delicate gestures.
The overall look was certainly rigorous and severe, as required by the Jil Sander tradition, but the elegant minimalism was softened by a delicacy and sensitivity deeply rooted in the designers’ unlimited passion for craftsmanship. Clean lines and sharp silhouettes defined the pieces, including coats with a martial feel and elongated shirts with applied pockets, but a certain poetic, a bit feminine touch always broke the rigor with lively results. For example, a charming painterly watercolor motif in pale colors suddenly appeared on a back of a shirt.
There was something nomadic and adventurous in the outwear styles with inlaid fringed scarves, in the long sweaters with embroideries on the sides, as well as in the suede safari jackets worn with slightly flared pants. Metallic applications gave an alluring artisanal vibe to the Shetland crewnecks and maxi bib-like knitted designs layered on shirts had a primeval feel.
At the same time, the sense of escapism was balanced by a tougher attitude, conveyed through moto-inspired zippered closures and masculine utility references, while the chunky knits tucked into high-waisted fluid pants added continental flare.
Quietly but steadily, Lucie and Luke Meier are finding a way to overpass the limits of the Jil Sander restrained aesthetic deciding to go deeper rather than wider. A smart move, since the fashion industry is entering a new era when, once again, less is more.