The identity was very strong and definitely not random at the Random Identities show, which Stefano Pilati staged on Thursday at Florence’s Stazione Leopolda, which was turned into an underground club with red lights and smoke.
In the span of only a few seasons, the designer silently carved out a very clear personality for his fashion project, which this fall lineup seemed to perfectly reflect: the tension running through new generations, struggling to find new codes better reflecting their vision of the world.
Moving beyond the concept of genderless, Pilati seemed to have established an actual non-binary fashion language, where boys, girls and children don’t represent different categories but are singular, outstanding personalities with their baggage of feelings, worries and emotions.
How was all of this conveyed? Through great clothes, where a rebellious attitude was running through impeccably cut silhouettes, reflecting Pilati’s sartorial know-how.
From the power suits revealing sophisticated tailored constructions to the outerwear styles with a uniform appeal, everything was injected with a very distinctive twist. Slick yet sensual, razor-sharp yet fluid, clothes incorporated contrasting elements in a way that felt new and fresh.
Pilati worked with tiny details. For example, a pair of pants was designed to become slightly flared when walking, revealing a contrasting red band, while little chains with micro rhinestones framed knitwear for distorted delicacy. This was also telegraphed through crystal bras worn over white shirts and inlaid silk inserts giving a languid feel to the pieces.
Playing mostly with solids, Pilati introduced Seventies’ graphic patterns on jacquard sweaters, which livened up the overall underground, nocturnal atmosphere.
When the designer launched this brand, the impression was of a diary about his new life in Berlin, where he found a different dimension compared with the more glamorous and traditional lifestyle of Paris and Milan. However, with this strong, alluring collection, Pilati seemed to show a desire to make Random Identities accessible to a wider audience. The show’s diverse and cinematic casting definitely helped the collection to shine bright.