For his debut at Pitti Uomo, Telfar Clemens brought his irreverent, rebellious touch to Florence’s Palazzo Corsini. A big circular table was installed inside a room of the splendid palazzo showing beautiful frescoes on the walls and the ceiling. The table, featuring decadent leftovers of a splendid party, became the catwalk for the models, who sported the collection, while a range of artists, including the Standing on the Corner experimental jazz band, as well as Hawa, Carrie Stacks and Boychild performed. Seventies and Nineties’ references collided in the lineup, which, while infused with Clemens’ signature energized creative tension, looked more commercially savvy than past efforts.
The New York designer experimented with mixed media, which defined the range of flared pants combining denim, padded nylon and knits to create a chaps-like trompe-l’oeil effect. Different fabrics were also combined on outerwear, including an oversize peacoat and a leather jacket, while moto stitching gave a biker twist to denim separates.
American vintage sport was celebrated with tracksuits in velour, which was also used for peasant tunics reflecting the brand’s iconic gender-fluidity, also highlighted by asymmetric knitted tops and frocks. A utility touch was introduced with the applied pockets on ultra-thin nylon draped tops and cable-knitted ponchos were decorated with college-inspired graphics for a twisted preppy look.
There was something charmingly essential in the dark denim ensembles with baggy silhouettes, which also characterized the power suits for Gen Z bankers with a rebellious heart, while a range of French Revolution-inspired looks turned a bit too costume party.
Clemens definitely brought street credibility to Pitti Uomo in a way that felt fresh, consistent and authentic.