Martine Rose was feeling nostalgic for fall. She staged her show at the Torriano primary school in North London, where her daughter is a student, and took it as an opportunity to look back at her and her brand’s own formative years and revisit some of her biggest influences.
The result was a “remix” of cultural movements, decades and personal milestones: Eighties shoulders, dandy ruffles, vinyl leather that alluded to the famous British club night Kinky Gerlinky and extra-large sporty parkas — Rose’s collection had it all.
She also included an array of personal references, from the print on loose suits that spelled out names of areas in London that are close to her heart to her capsule collection with men’s wear label Farah, of Oxford T-shirts and “perma-crease” trousers, which brought back memories of her uncle.
Rose wasn’t afraid to play with “bad taste” either, be it flashy mirror logos on T-shirts, over-the-knee cowboy boots, loud paisley prints clashed with stripes or the models’ big volume hairstyles. She piled it all on and in doing so she created a bold, confident look of her own. It might not be for everyone, but it certainly made for a refreshing change to the sea of generic streetwear dominating the runways.