Stefan Cooke is all grown up. For fall 2020, he adopted a more pragmatic approach and established new signatures beyond the trompe l’oeil techniques he first became known for.
That’s why a lot of traditional tailoring pieces cropped up on his runway for the first time, like duffle coats, blazers and check suits. They were reworked in a slim, more feminine silhouette — including short, pleated skirts layered over pants.
There were also everyday favorites like loose knits featuring vintage-inspired intarsias and cutouts, or denim done in collaboration with Lee Jeans and featuring stud embellishments.
Aside from a few more directional elements like shearling-trimmed tote bags and hand-painted leather vests, this was quite a departure for Cooke, who runs his namesake label alongside his partner Jake Burt.
That’s why the duo appropriately called the show “The End” and put “a skeleton orchestra” on the catwalk.
“There’s this incoming doom that’s been really felt and the end of the decade, but it’s also really personal to us moving forward with our business and going to a different level. We were ushering out the old in a way and presenting a new version of [the brand],” said Cooke, adding that he is becoming more interested in clothes that don’t define your character in an obvious manner.