Kean Etro ramped up the heat, piling blankets, fringes, wool and corduroy into a collection meant to warm the body as well as the heart.
“What we need is love,” said the designer, slipping off his own burgundy velvet jacket backstage and flashing the silk lining, printed with a picture of him cuddling up to wife Costanza.
In fashion terms, the jacket was a relic — made circa 2005 — but for Etro it captured the collection’s mood: “An urge to root, to take wisdom from our ancestors. It’s about nostalgia, warmth and coziness — like a fireplace,” said the designer, who covered the walls of the chilly, industrial venue with oil portraits that are part of the family’s extensive art collection and placed Etro-branded wooly blankets on every seat.
Like so many designers this season, Etro worked with traditional woolen wovens for this handsome collection of layered separates: Herringbone for top coats, British country gentleman checks for trousers tucked into leather riding boots, and stacks of plaid blanket coats and fringed jackets.
Scarves, shawls and ponchos, some with stripes swiped from British regiments or Native American textiles, were draped over models’ shoulders or fluttered romantically behind them as they walked. (On a nostalgic note, Etro tapped Nineties and Noughties model Mark Vanderloo to walk the show).
A textured leopard print coat and Samarkand patterned velvet one radiated heat, as did a lineup of corduroy suits, in colors like orange, fiery red, cobalt and yellow, like a flash from a Bunsen burner — or the Etro family hearth.