Embracing a big trend of the season, Giorgio Armani wanted take a step back from “cool sportswear,” he said during a preview of the collection. “It’s less street,” he added, referring to the lineup’s overall look.

Aiming to portray a “hot guy” with an “effortless” style, “who knows what elegance is and rethinks it with the filter of 2020,” as he explained, Armani played with an idea of urban elegance, which felt cozy and welcoming.

While he opened his show with pieces from the Neve capsule collection of black-and-white luxury ski outfits, which perfectly fit the polar environment he created inside the Armani Theater with projections of snowfalls and recycled Plexi cubes mimicking ice, he then veered toward a more elegant aesthetic conveyed through soft materials and sober colors.

Textures took center stage. Tactile, plush materials were crafted for statement outerwear designs, including a chic double-breasted coat that combined a military feel with “a country aristocratic” attitude, as Armani said, as well as great shearling pieces and wool shirt jackets, sometimes embellished with jacquard motifs.

Armani’s assertive masculinity echoed in the suits, which — always featuring the brand’s signature light constructions — also sported shawl lapels with velvet inserts this season. Jackets also came with tiny collars and small proportions, enabling them to be worn as shirts paired with pants cut in generous silhouettes.

Hitting one of the season’s biggest trends, Armani introduced geometric patterns on sweaters, exuding an intriguing Seventies feel.

The palette of neutral colors was livened up by red, in shades that Armani considered “suitable for men.” But forget yellow: that is definitely not appropriate for gentlemen, Armani stated backstage.

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