Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina said they went through a hard financial moment last year, which led them to reconsider certain partnerships — they ended their collaborations with Tomorrow and Karla Otto for distribution and p.r., respectively.

The duo wanted to translate that sense of darkness — but at the same time the strength that enabled them to forge on — into their fall collection, which felt more somber and severe than past efforts. For the first time, the brand introduced black, which was used for both sartorial suits with a Nineties feel and more sporty outfits, such as shorts matched with fitted knits.

A “Blade Runner”-like mood also defined the women’s outfits, including a cape punctuated with metallic snaps worn over a pencil skirt and a turtleneck. The brand’s signature stripes were still there but felt more sober and macro polka dots with faded effects added an artsy touch.

It might have been the difficult phase they faced, it might have been a natural evolution, but Sunnei — which in February will officially unveil a collaboration with luxury accessories brand Valextra — showed a collection that looked more mature and definitely more polished. What doesn’t kill you can make you stronger.

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