Marcus Wainwright has returned to his brand’s house codes for the fall collection, working closely with the design team to present a lineup that feels like a restart of sorts. Wainwright strayed from streetwear elements and restored focus to what the brand has always been recognized for: the perfect mix of tailoring and heritage.
“It’s not done up, not crisp or sharp. It’s lived in, a bit easier,” he said during a preview at the Rag & Bone Meatpacking District showroom. At first glance, that was obvious by exploring how the suits were deconstructed with brushed worsted wools, the cable-knit sweaters were offered in camouflage patterns and the Harris Tweed topcoat was realized in a heavy, yet lush manner that looks like it will last forever.
The clothes encompassed a very functional aesthetic, with workwear and military elements throughout, such as a bright yellow quilted shirt jacket paired with multi-patch denim jeans, and a camouflage parka shown with a technical zipped jacket and cargo pants.
Quite unexpected was the debut of a collaboration with renowned British brand Laura Ashley. The use of the brand’s trademark floral prints on hoodies, denim, button-down shirts and even a pair of low-top sneakers, brought a light mood to the offering that was also appealing to the eye.
Outerwear was expanded this season and included a down-filled program inspired by an old M42 army sleeping bag that Wainwright purchased many years back. But he modernized the offering by making the coats technical in nature and sharply tailored. A cropped moto jacket in green, done in the same fabric, was quite the eye-catcher.
“We’ve always done military and tailoring, it’s how you put it together,” he said. However this time around, it was gratifying to see a quintessentially Rag & Bone collection.