Archie Alled-Martinez loves a slinky silhouette, a bare chest and a louche Seventies attitude. For fall, he built on his signature, curve-hugging silhouettes and tailored knitwear, showing off pieces including an intarsia pinstripe suit, and a tailored, double-breasted denim jacket. His white waistcoat, done in a shimmery Lurex fabric and white viscose, had a “Saturday Night Fever” feel, but was slimmer fitting and more sensual than the one Tony Manero hustled in.

WWD Critique: Alled-Martinez is a fabrics whizz-kid, and his tailored knitwear is impressive. Moving forward, it would be great to see him put the Seventies on hold for a bit and add a few different shapes to his repertoire.

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