Sébastien Meunier looked to Nijinsky in “Afternoon of a Faun” for the sensuality of his men’s collection. To strains of Debussy, out came long-limbed silhouettes of dancers on- and off-duty. Lush and tactile materials — shearlings left raw-edged, cloudy knits, moiré velvets — contrasted with precise tailoring. A handful of nymph-like female looks dotted the lineup but the distinction felt tenuous. To wit, a robe coat in a pastel velvet or lace shirting would appeal regardless of any labeling. Chunky boots gave these characters a believable on-the-streets angle. “Man, woman, it doesn’t matter,” he said.
WWD Critique: Languid fluidity and the romance inherent to Ann Demeulemeester offered an intriguing contribution to the season’s conversation about masculinity.