Dries Van Noten’s man certainly loves his layers and adornments — a languid drape of wild animal faux fur, a sparkly belt or rhinestone trim, patterned velvet, flowers and checks.
He also loves great, clanging clashes of color and texture: sheer flowery tops fluttering from below a hefty green puffer; yellow leopard print trousers paired with a plaid lumberjack top; shiny satin kissing dry wool.
There was a lot going on in this collection, some of it nice, as in the tailored check jackets and two-button suits secured with a glittering brooch, but all the layering, mixing and jumbling was confusing on the eye and obscured the season’s message, if there was one there at all.
The designer said in his notes this collection was an evolution of his spring outing, and there’s nothing wrong with that, but it was difficult to see what was going on; the individual pieces got lost in the sartorial shuffle.
That’s too bad, as those tailored pieces looked to be right in step with the march of men’s fashion right now, as designers steer away from street, and toward fancier, heritage fabrics and traditional tailoring worn in a casual way.
Please, Dries, next time strip off the fur, frills and gewgaws and just show us the clothes.