A photo of Langan’s Brasserie in the Seventies — a Mayfair institution where Johnny Rotten’s spiky punk hair clashed with the stemmed glasses and white napkins, while Michael Caine sat at the next table — captured the British charm and irreverence that Mark Weston was after. This he channeled with a sophisticated lineup of Eighties-flavored looks that emphasized layering — built around the label’s elegant leather capes and overcoats  and by adding extra bulk around the neck, which he also likes to leave bare. He introduced a new trouser cut — roomy, gently tapered at the ankle, worked in a papery eelskin material in shiny, vibrant colors. Yang Yang sat in the front row.

WWD Critique: With the industry going toward chic, Dunhill’s right there with a collection that felt more richly textured.

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