Even if Gamut, the anonymous fashion collective, decided this season to present a more commercial collection, that doesn’t mean it is toning down its edginess. Presented at La Station, a grimy club on the fringes of Paris, half the collection was a gritty capsule wardrobe — a red leather shirt, a structured duffel coat, a pair of tailored pants with stretch kneepads — while the other, made mostly of upcycled fabric, ran wild. It featured a cropped jacket with haphazard stitching over the seams, pants held together by loose blue thread, and a cool zip-up nylon sports jacket transformed into a corset. An art performance by two drag queens was held at the event, during which they picked up various Gamut garments and tied then round their bodies, demonstrating their versatility.

WWD Critique: The label’s more commercial pieces were convincing — not surprising since the Gamut designers trained at prestigious fashion school La Cambre — but its strength lies in its outsider status: the wacky upcycled pieces better translated the brand’s creativity.

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