The decade is barely started but Heron Preston is already looking at the road, or rather building work, ahead. Comparing the world to “the most complex construction zone we have ever witnessed,” Preston offered men hard-wearing slim-line trousers, cargo pants, hard-wearing outerwear, or a shortened, more fitted version of his classic T-shirt. The women’s swung between tailored utility — nipped-in chunky sweaters, roomy jumpsuits or form skimming suiting — and slinky options like corset tops, slipdresses or zippered bustier dresses. If the crews that build our world remain unseen to most, these clothes will surely be seen at hip parties come the fall.
Many pieces felt like they could cross the gender divide. “I posted the Spirit Level heel and got so many comments from men who loved it. It also helps people have more of an open-mind at seeing that crossover,” Preston said backstage.
This season’s collaborators included Caterpillar for the orange Stormer boots, and the British Ministry of Defense, whose wildlife conservation project protects animals from poaching in Africa and who approved Preston’s design featuring their Rhino patch, Cyrillic “Style” embroidery and all. A portion of this collection’s profits will be donated to the African Parks organization.
Another was Los Angeles artist Kenny Scharf, whose 1998 painting “Meanie” provided the starting point for a print of menacing eyes, a nod to those used to ward off evil. The boogeyman of our times and the first thing he’d change were he made God, Preston said, was “people’s mind-sets. To change what’s happening, we have to change the way we think, again using our imagination to design a world we could like to live in. We can’t design a future without thinking about it first.”
Among his thoughts, sustainability, materialized in this collection as the innate durability of workwear, recycled nylons and Gore-Tex made from recycled polyester. Nothing that stood out but an implicit message that anyone considering a Heron Preston purchase is part of the crew tackling “hyper objects such as climate change.”