Closing his cycle dedicated to the works of Curzio Malaparte, Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s trompe l’oeil collection marched through the landscapes of World War II with structured backward or inside-out tailoring, including his signature knit suits, in a color palette that graduated from military khaki to the pale blue of a winter sky via iridescent technical fabrics that looked to have been doused in petrol.

WWD Critique: Nouchi has a particular, almost poetic way of creating his gauche, boxy silhouettes, and his multiple collaborations this season — including a quirky capsule with soccer club Paris Saint-Germain, a tie-up with Smalto on tailoring and accessories designed with Cahu, an edgy label making bags out of the offcuts from bouncy castles — bear witness to his growing stature.

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