Pierre Mahéo got his hands on a cache of photos of New York in the Seventies — Sunil Gupta’s “Christopher Street 1976” — and went to town. 

“That street at that time was phenomenal! I just loved it,” he enthused backstage before the show. Drawn to the velvet, corduroy, denim and military pieces, and the way they were mixed , the designer worked shearling coats, a jean jacket, British khakis and nutty brown suits — one with a handsome shadow plaid shirt underneath — into his coed lineup.

The first part of the collection focused on volumes, which he borrowed from a pair of vintage trousers that had belonged to Hordes Genberg, the wife of British actor David Niven — with double box pleats. He paired these, in white, with chunky ivory sweaters and  a crisp suit jacket, or in herringbone with a turtleneck sweater — the latter style snatched from today’s streets.

To finish the show, his mind went to Jacques Dutronc and Françoise Hardy and he slimmed down the jackets and trousers a notch. (He noted trousers are an important seller for the brand.) Dresses for women veered into bourgeois territory, but he also offered a checked wool work shirt for women, which he paired with a dark skirt that carried an extended fringe that felt very modern. 

Pushing elegance and comfort, with a clear notion of style, Mahéo did what he does best — push fashion forward with a light hand, while keeping things utterly wearable. 

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