Spencer Phipps swapped last season’s craggy, rock-climbing thrust for the forest. Earth tones reigned and park ranger uniforms strode naturally alongside satin shirts, corduroy jean-and-jacket combos and studded puffer coats — all modern, with a Western twang. Exploring new registers of masculinity, he offered both brawn and romance, with focus on elegant tailoring. There was a charming Smokey Bear collaboration — worked onto T-shirts and hoodies, but also a luxurious, natural wool sweater — and the debut of his Gold Label of customized vintage.
WWD Critique: Phipps handled his segues masterfully, steering his outdoorsy man onto the streets, adding considerable polish without abandoning his original and lovably rugged character.