Rick Owens pumped up the volume and flashed the flesh with a fun, less-is-more collection that was all about performance, posing and theatrical gestures. True, Owens usually thinks big, and his world is almost always a stage — or a big dance floor.
This time, though, his approach was different. Owens was thinking about “all the clutter of the world nowadays, and so I wanted to simplify things and make them sleeker.” He considered “the graphics of exposed skin” and exaggerated shapes to counterbalance the clutter. “I’m streamlining, simplifying, exaggerating.”
Owens swaddled his models in periwinkle or cinnamon cashmere, creating one-leg or one-arm jumpsuits, and putting the focus on the flesh — an exposed thigh or a bare arm, shoulder or midriff. Chunky plexiglass-heeled platforms with metal toe guards gave these tall fellas even more height and longer daddy-long-leg proportions.
The designer balanced all that spindly height with pointed shoulders of epic proportions on short jackets, long coats and blanket-like puffers. They certainly swaggered, as long black coats or cinnamon colored ones with 3-D ridges.
Not all the collection skewed to extremes: For lower-key customers, there were lean tailored, two-button jackets, long and short shearlings in off-kilter combinations like periwinkle and rust, and overcoats with little straps at the back, or two-tone leather panels stitched onto the shoulders.
Leather jackets had a reptilian look, one was yellow with brown stains, while another sprouted blue scales.
“I don’t know exactly where it’s going,” said Owens, “but I’m throwing in some exuberance and energy.” Those spidery legs and ham hock shoulders are definitely going places, although maybe not to the office just yet.