Riccardo Tisci is on the move, guided by the natural world and by the chic simplicity and gender-fluid styles of British men including David Bowie and Michael Clark.
Tisci has long been a believer in fluid dressing. “I grew up with nine women around me, and I’ve always been obsessed with the idea of men playing with women’s wardrobes,” said the designer in a video call shortly after Burberry’s digital runway show.
He staged a stand-alone men’s show for the first time because the collection has been doing well (the British soccer champ, activist and Burberry campaign star Marcus Rashford has surely been helping with that) and Tisci wanted to shine a light on it.
The designer cleared out Burberry’s temporarily shut store on Regent Street, filled it with a multilayered wooden runway, and sent models walking up, down and around wearing swingy trenches, kilts and wooly caps with top knots like little animal ears.
There was a sturdiness, and a delicacy, to this collection: long bunny ears flopped from the hood of a big and fuzzy blue Yeti coat, while striped duffle styles with chunky front panels were like thick, luscious blankets.
Those big coats shared the runway with trenches cinched at the waist with little silk scarves, shirts edged in military fringe and kilt-like minis attached to shirts and sweaters. The fringe was fine in small doses, but often veered into majorette territory. Dangling from the edges of a fur-print shirt, it looked gaudy.
Silhouettes were soft, with a street-y swagger, including baseball jackets with the sleeves lopped off, elbow-length patchwork puffers and cargo shorts. There was a little bit of tailoring, but the suit has moved to the back of the closet, not just for Burberry but for most other luxury brands, too.
Tisci himself said his way of dress has changed since moved to London from Paris a few years ago.
“London is much more relaxed,” said the Italian, who’s been spending his winter running in Hyde Park or padding around in thick socks and comfy sandals. He said the city’s tastes are eclectic, with men pairing “a cashmere tailored coat with tracksuit bottoms,” and he’s clearly doing the same, mixing it up for a suit-less generation of shoppers.