London-based label Danshan, designed by Danxia Liu and Shan Peng Wong, interprets the concept of man as a sentient being with its fall 2021 collection using labor-intensive innovative techniques to layer, slash and distress a rich mixture of textiles.

The look: Sensible men who don’t need to dress to showcase their masculinity.

Quote of note: “The starting point of the fall collection was Charles Darwin’s book ‘The Decent of Man,’ in which he expressed his compassionate view of human nature. Darwin explained the origin of what he called sympathy, describing how humans and other animals come to the aid of others in distress. He even calls compassion ‘the almost ever-present instinct’ when a fellow human witnesses the suffering of another.…This idea is ever more resonating in today’s COVID-19-wrecked world.”

Key looks: Embroidered puffer jackets that are made using layers of satin, first bonded together with embroidery, then treated with a distressing technique by hand; a boxy glossy jacket; oversized jacquard jumpers with abstract lines and distressed wide-leg trousers.

The takeaway: Danshan’s design is not glamorous in the traditional sense, but it has carved out a niche for wealthy people who like to dress up like nomads and value comfort and attention to detail in a garment.