A British vibe ran through the Caruso fall collection, designed by creative director Aldo Maria Camillo, with tartan patterns revving up suits in bold colors or peeking out in the lining of soft trenches, and Prince of Wales patterns shrunk on suits and in bold colors.
Under the lead of Camillo and chief executive officer Marco Angeloni, Caruso is in step with the times, offering softer silhouettes, “with a playful elegance, a touch of irreverence and moving away from the corporate room,” said Angeloni.
The brand has upped the ante on its fabrics research. The extremely light Japanese Chiba nylon, which has a peach skin feel, said Angeloni, was employed to create a new line of jackets and the lining of some sartorial coats. Shirts and blazers were made with ultra-fine 180s wool and the lyocell fiber, at times presented with utility pockets and horn buttons.
Technical wool with patterns inspired by the British tradition appeared on water- and wind-resistant outerwear items. Jackets, Caruso’s core product, were deconstructed and lightened, allowing easy layering, mixing casual and sartorial, technology and tradition. Carrot pants had higher waists and flap pockets, which, worn under cyclist jackets with gussets, contributed to the young and fresh image of the collection.
Camillo played with the juxtaposition of colors, such as charcoal gray contrasting with ruby red; chocolate brown with ocean green and hydrangea blue, and a golden albino camel offset by navy blue or light gray.