After a few seasons referencing ’90s grunge and fans of old-school British soccer teams from that era a bit too literally, Portuguese designer David Catalán found his sweet spot.

As he continued to play with archetypes of youth culture from that decade, he injected a sense of ease and comfort into his fall lineup. It centered on a single silhouette in which baggy pants slightly cropped at the ankle were paired with trucker jackets in denim or shimmering leather.

A utilitarian feel came through in vests worn over oversized tie-dye hoodies and tracksuits with patent leather inserts running down the sides. Catalán set the reset button on his color palette, too, working a range of neutrals including dove gray, khaki and military green.

Youth subcultures have percolated through fashion since forever, but Catalán here was able to filter it through a more contemporary and personal lens than in the past, layering relaxed and uncomplicated pieces with a grungy feel that young men might want to wear without looking too nostalgic.

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