Whether Kean Etro believes or not that the year 2021 heralds the new age of Aquarius, the designer is certainly letting the sun shine in.
The designer called the fall collection “a hymn to joy — the sun always shines after a storm.” Etro streamed its fashion show after a peak in the pandemic in Italy scuttled plans for a live event. Models were bathed in sunlight streaming through huge windows of the spare industrial space chosen as the set. “The light changes our point of view, creating optical illusions,” said the designer.
Confined at home, “we have all put order in our wardrobes,” and this has resulted in “understanding our own personalities better,” mixing clothes from different moments of our lives, he said. Combined with the effects of the pandemic, boundaries between day and eveningwear, and styles to be worn inside and outdoors have been blurred, according to him.
For sure, a playful vibe ran throughout the lineup, which looked very young and fresh, while remaining luxurious and built on precious fabrics.
Baggy utility denim pants were splashed with cashmere motifs and shown with tailored camel coats. Some models sported Bermuda shorts, but there were also double-breasted suits that came in deconstructed, fluid silhouettes. Sporty anoraks were decorated with Etro’s signature paisley patterns and robe coats were in sync with the trend. Another brand motif, the Pegasus winged horse, embellished bomber jackets and oversized hoodies.
Mindful of the environment, Etro recycled wool into maxi sweaters, and archival silk linings were used for shirt collars. Etro has long had a successful home collection and the brand’s vintage upholstery textiles were employed for quilted jackets. Easy and chic pantsuits were made in smooth velvet, or wool and linen swatches from the home line with flame motifs. A range in yellow and gold stood out on the runway.
Accessories included brogues and loafers crafted in the Italian tradition yet punctuated with studs, patchwork sneakers with neon laces, pouches and crossbody bags with multiple pockets, and backpacks decorated with mandala and paisley patterns.
Etro introduced vests in a blend of wool and mohair — a bright yellow one was in sync with the sun-kissed theme — that are part of a see now, buy now genderless capsule collection.