In Luca Magliano’s short film, long takes and close-ups of a frescoed ceiling provided quite a distraction from his clothes. The puzzling plot did, too — take a spectrum of male characters, gather them in a lavish Italian palazzo, let a branded wedding cake enter the scene and have a model in underwear playing an angel fly over their heads, smashing the cake on his landing. Then leave it to the audience to figure out everything.
Albeit references abounded in the press notes, ranging from the works of writers from Pierpaolo Pasolini to Cesare Pavese, the gist of the experience is much simpler: Even with the surreal gimmicks of the video, Magliano’s collection was credible and had commercial appeal.
Once again, the designer showed his penchant for the 1980s, but offered different takes on that decade’s style to dress the diverse cast. In this spirit, tweed power suits and broad-shoulder blazers appeared next to oversize denim shirts, washed jeans and leather bomber jackets. Softer silhouettes included fluid, printed satin shirts and crochet cardigans, including one with a cherub embroidered on the back.
The designer’s signature tongue-in-cheek approach was in full display in the sexual innuendos depicted on a billowing white satin shirt and knitted on a cream-colored sweater, as well as in the gestures of some characters in the short film.