They say the best is usually saved for last, and such was the case as designer Willy Chavarria’s digital presentation for his fall collection culminated the short week, at least on the men’s wear front. Oh how New York Fashion Week has missed Willy. After taking a brief hiatus from the show schedule, Chavarria returned to present a tight lineup of his “classics” but in a more refined and pared-down manner, cementing notions of endurance and survivalism and how those elements define where we all are right now in our state of being, given the uncertain times.

This season Chavarria put heavy emphasis on the silhouette, fabric and structure, giving him room to think about other things besides the garments themselves. His goal was clear: challenge the silhouettes themselves, from round, triangular and rectangular, all toward the extreme, for instance a heavy twill skirt, bulbous-like pants, overcoats with wide lapels, pants with asymmetric flies and pleats, and even T-shirts (like a cholo striped cropped version) that possess versatile-like shapes of round and boxy, all mainly done in recycled fibers (such as blends of wools with sea plastics).

The pieces were meant to be timeless and egalitarian without all the tricks and gimmicks, forgoing heavy logos or bold graphics we have seen in past collections, and meant to fit a variety of body types, not to mention that they also embody a genderless undertone without having to label it as such.

Chavarria’s collections always hold elements of “Chicanismo,” and the brand’s ethos has always been rooted in helping others while promoting inclusivity, so this season he decided to collaborate with Mexican artist Carlos Graciano, also known as @sadpapi666 on Instagram (the platform via which the duo met). Both fans of one another, Graciano provided the 1990s spirit via the masculine graphics he commissioned for two T-shirt styles: “We’ve always been about the cause more than the clothes, we love clothes, too, but it’s always been more of a vehicle of expressing social justice,” said the designer via a Zoom call.

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