Davide Marello loves to use plants and animals in his prints. Inspired — or, more precisely, dispirited — by the second French lockdown, he felt the butterfly, a motif he’d refrained from using for fear of falling into clichés, was the right creature to symbolize the shocking change the world has experienced.
Along with blowsy roses, fragile dandelions and old French posters, they were meant to lend a romantic air to masculine staples of trousers with a front pleat, thick gauge knits, fitted blousons and printed silk shirts. Individually, all were charming. The color palette of browns, blacks and blues whispered covetable vintage. Silk shirts and slimline suits with natty scarves aimed for louche seduction; thick-gauge knits and well-cut coats whispered going steady.
But without the support of a clear narrative thread, the season’s film, set against the Art Nouveau décor of a Parisian restaurant, made the collection feel like a filler sequence — well executed, very personable but not entirely memorable.