Philippe Paubert tapped into our need for reassurance for fall, offering a cozy, easy-to-wear interpretation of Ungaro’s house codes while continuing to focus on lightweight updates of classic men’s wear fabrics. His mottled color palette offered earthy tones, classic men’s wear blues and grays and graduations of purple, orange, deep burgundy and teal, recalling the colors of sunset.
The collection featured an expanded knitwear offer including chunky Aran sweaters and a lightweight peacoat with a bonded Neoprene lining and brushed surface. By focusing on textural effects, Paubert intended to echo the clay, plaster and bronze sculptures of Jean-Charles Mainardis, in whose Paris studio the brand’s video was shot. In contrast, sporty allover logo pieces here and there told a different story.
The focus on comfort extended to tailored pieces like unlined jackets with a hint of stretch, in check fabrics, corduroy and velvet, and pants that incorporated practical aspects like hidden elastic waistbands. With widened hips and tapered legs, they were designed to show off the label’s footwear, which included a diverse range of sneaker styles and lightweight patinated brogue-style ankle boots.