Most people don’t think of clothes when they hear the word “diversity.” Nonetheless, Japanese designer Fumito Ganryu chose it as his theme for fall, interpreting it in often unexpected ways. He incorporated a variety of influences and elements to make versatile pieces that work well on their own, but even better when combined.

Ganryu opted to present his collection in look book form this season, continuing his ongoing collaboration with stylist Tom Guinness, who also shot the photos. Outerwear is prominent in the collection, and many jackets have removable collars that can be swapped from piece to piece to create different looks. Others are designed to be worn either on their own or layered, with insulated and quilted coats providing extra warmth to those constructed of thinner fabrics. Lightweight puffer coats made from recycled materials have wide, shortened sleeves that allow the color of whatever garment is worn beneath to peek out.

The designer chose a palette of neutrals and the three primary colors, which he said also reflects his theme. “When I thought about what colors are the most diverse, the answer is primary colors, because with those three colors plus black and white, you can make any other color,” Ganryu said during a preview at his studio in Tokyo. “So if you feel like wearing orange one day, you can wear red together with yellow and get the same feeling.”

As a whole, the collection is perfectly representative of its time, with a clear focus on comfort and functionality. A denim jacket with a removable faux-fur collar has pleats across the back that both improve mobility and lend a slight femininity to a basic style, while sweatshirts have wide, kimono-inspired sleeves complete with pockets for stashing essentials. Other influences come from vintage workwear and outdoor styles, with button-down shirts featuring pockets inspired by backpacks or work aprons.

Ganryu said the production of the look book itself proved to him that the collection was even more versatile than even he had realized. “Tom put the pieces together in ways that I hadn’t thought of. I’ll be doing a show as a guest designer during Tokyo Fashion Week in March and even though the collection will be the same, it will look completely different because all the looks and styling will be entirely new,” he said.

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