Are collarbones set to become the new erogenous zone for men?
Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik are certainly betting on it, with a fall collection for their Berlin-based GmbH label that unlocked the sensual potential of the neckline with shawl constructions embedded in everything from body-conscious knits to fake fur coats.
The duo were inspired by mid-century haute couture — not what you’d expect from a label rooted in underground club culture. “Now it’s become like a joke for us that people think that GmbH was founded on the dance floor, so we’re willfully playing with this idea and having a little bit fun with it,” Huseby said.
Panels of fabric, tightly draped across the chest, gave an armor-like quality to their tailored coats and jackets. Strip away the sleeves, and suddenly the models’ ripped torsos looked almost swan-like, whether framed by the simple shawl collar on a quilted black coat or the lush faux fur trim on a black jacket.
The effect was on the right side of camp, balanced out by the fetishistic edge of their signature sleek outfits, including black pants with zippers framing the groin. Isik said pattern-cutting took on a therapeutic quality this season after a year spent salvaging their business from the impact of the coronavirus pandemic.
“It’s just something I need to stay sane,” he explained. “In many ways, this collection is very hopeful because it’s really about believing that we’re going to go into clubs again, and operas and theaters and weddings — and GmbH has the looks for that.”
It also has the accessories: The label is launching its first full range of vegan shoes and accessories, including tall riding boots with curved zips. With Germany still under lockdown, that might just be the ultimate fantasy footwear.