For the fall, Hed Mayner felt a need for clarity. This came across in his video presentation, where the clothing was captured in a straightforward runway style, complete with slow-motion passage to show details, but also in a lineup that did away with the experimentations and layering of seasons past.

In their stead were clean, elongated lines that showed the Israeli designer’s dab hand at tailoring, be it on a very wide double-breasted suit that slouched just so; the bulk-free pairing of a Prince of Wales coat and matching jacket; or more casual puffer coats and quilted parkas. “It’s not about making tailoring holy, but about using it to refining the familiar into something more gentle, with that slightly off feeling,” he said.

Materials were tactile and classic, with dry tweeds, English suiting and crisp cottons dominating. The result, in its light neutral palette of butter, rust, olive, camel, ivory and blues, was quiet yet striking, with a timeless, ageless feel.

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