When the pandemic hit, Dilan Lurr found himself wondering about his place in the world. A civil engineer by training, he’d always had niggling doubts about his fashion path. “But I’ve finally accepted that I am a designer,” he said during a showroom preview.
With that came a desire to acknowledge Antwerp and the Belgian creative community that have deeply influenced — and embraced — his brand’s identity: Lurr was named emerging talent of 2019 by the country’s fashion bodies. “With the digital way of doing things, we are almost losing track of the aesthetic currents of the different cities,” he said.
So in keeping with the serious and cerebral undertones of the Belgian schools, Lurr peppered his fall collection with artistic references as varied as Hieronimus Bosch’s “Garden of Earthly Delights,” embodied in a puffy red velvet cape or in a furry jacket; New York’s legendary nightclub CBGB, in the laddered knitwear and slinky slipdresses, or an airplane print spotted on shirts and tops, lifted from an anti-war photography book by German lawyer and publisher Klaus Staerk.
Filmed against the raw industrial walls of famous Antwerp club Grand Capital Café, a clubbing landmark that had only just reopened after a decadelong absence when lockdown happened, the lineup had the weirdness of a Rainer Fassbinder film — another influence this season — and much of its memorable grit, too.